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R&D Challenges
This part of the Pixel Gallery is dangerous. Reading through
the hundreds of mails I got from people all over the world, it seems that every time I
give an answer to something, people tend to come back with 10 more questions. The reality
is that it is impossible to describe a step-by-step method to bring people from the stage
'I want to make a Pixel' up to a working model. I have no plans, only a couple of concept
sketches, and a few computer drawings like the one you see above. Note that almost nothing
in the real Pixel is like on the drawings. That is basically because the drawings were
made before the building just to get a visual idea of all the strange things I saw in my
head.
In spite of all of that, I will try to elaborate on some of
the major areas of development that anyone who tries to go my way will have to deal with.
The challenge is best described by Walter Scholl, the man of WES Techniek. He saw Pixel,
he touched Pixel, he was involved in the development, he is a very skilled modelbuilder
and he continues to claim that it is impossible to copy Pixel, because one can copy the
components, but not it's soul...
I would not pretend however that I am the only one able to do
this. But having said that, I realize that it has been a major undertaking and that you
need to be very skilled (in multiple domains), and be very patient to come to positive
results. I wish you good luck, and am very curious to see how other people's Pixalikes
will look like.
I have many more ideas, one of them is Pixel IV at 75 grams.
You see, did I tell you that some level of obsession helps as well...?
Pixel
Aerodynamics
Blades &
Reynolds |
Most of you probably don't have a clue what this
means. I'll try to explain in an easy way. Not that you'll have to bother a lot, but it
will put rotorblade design in a context. The Renolds number (Re) is a representation for a
specific aerodynamic environment. Some of these mathematical numbers hit the general
public. Most popular is the Cx of a car, where even my neighbor knows that the lower the
Cx the better. For Re however it is the reverse: the higher the better. Re describe to a
large extend how a certain airfoil will behave in a certain environment. The Re number
depends on the type of environment (air, water, oil,...), the length of the airfoil, and
the speed of the airfoil. A Boeing 747 flying at 800 km/hr with a 10 meter airfoil has a
very high Re. Pixel rotorblades on the other hand, with a mere 25mm depth and tip speed in
hover of maybe 60 km/hr is on the complete other side. They have the aerodynamic
environment of a butterfly, and that is not really a floater. The point is: by nature (I mean this literally), the Pixel rotor will have
a low efficiency. That means that it will require relatively speaking much more power to
produce a certain lift than comparable bigger designs.
As a starter, the news could have been better. On the other
hand, this gives a first class pointer towards the priorities: design the most efficient
rotor. Probably 70% of all my testing efforts went to that. I can testify that it takes
more than cutting some rough guess blades, screw them on a rotor hub and let them spin at
1200 rpm.
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Blade Design |
Did you know that mathematical models indicate
that the fat flies can not fly? And yet I get crazy every time their buzzing hangs around
in my house. Till proof of the opposite, they seem to fly very well indeed. The
point is that whatever the mathematics say, you will have to give it a try. 'He succeeded
because he did not know it was impossible' is an applicable statement. Pixel blades
testing learned that wider/shorter blades seem to perform better than narrow/long ones.
This goes against all theories, but can I help it? Later on I will expand on the test
set-up. Overall, longer blades (given a certain width) always score better. However, if
the purpose was to build a small helicopter, it needed to have short blades, so I made
them wider. On Pixel I for example, blades are 28mm on average, and make up for a 37cm
rotor. On Pixel III, the worst blades needed TWICE the power for a certain lift than the
best ones I made Blade airfoil is a difficult
one. The thinner they are, the better, believe me. But the thinner they are, the more
they flex and twist, so their is a limit. On that size, 10% relative thickness is about
realistic, given that the blades are covered with 20gr/sqm fiber (put on with 'red' ZAP)
for torsional strength.
Blade twist can improve performance by some 10%. For
Pixel 2&3, about 8% is build in.
Blade taper is another attempt to increase efficiency.
Make the root about 50 larger than the tip (while maintaining average depth) and you will
be safe.
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Disk Loading |
It is rather well known that planes fly better
if they are lighter. For airplanes, the biggest difference (apart from aspect ratio)
between a floater sailplane and an F3A aerobatics plane is the wing loading. Take any
plane and double it's weight (and hence the wing loading) by putting lead into it and it
will fly at least very different. Most of us will acknowledge it will fly a lot worse.
Taking the opposite reasoning, reducing the weight by half of any reasonably good flying
plane will improve flight performance substantially. Why wouldn't the same be true for
helicopters. These do not have wing loading, but disk loading. That is the weight divided
by the virtual surface of the rotordisc. One of
the reasons that Pixels fly so well is that they have only about 50% of the disk
loading compared to 'normal' helicopters. For Pixel that is around 10gram/sqDm, for
about any other helicopter I know it is in the twenties and more.
This reduced loading was one off-set against the weak
performance at low Re.
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Detailed
Aerodynamics |
If you want to get into the full insight, there
is a beautiful site where you can find most if not all...For the real stuff, go to site
mentioned under 'Links and Books' |
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Main Rotor Design
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One of the challenges of Pixel is that apart from making it small, I had
to design rotorheads. Helicopter rotorhead are very complicated units, and making the big
things just smaller does not work. So, I had to do lots of testing to get the appropriate
balance between rotor size, controllability, stability etc. Above is the final version of
the Pixel I head. It is a dual flapping head, without damping. This head is very stable,
but lacks some control power. |
On Pixel III, I build 4 different rotors, before I got it right. This is
the 3rd version, conceptually similar to the head on Pixel I. I could not get the
aerodynamic balance right however. I got perfect control but needed the head to spin at
above 2000rpm. This is way too much, and power consumption was far above 'budget'. That
head looked great, but that is not enough off course. The problem was that the hinge axis
were too close to the central hub. The torque moments produced by the lifting blades had
not enough 'lever' to make the heli move. |
Another attempt on Pixel III rotorheads. This is the hinged rigid rotor,
developed from the full rigid rotor. Results were better than with the fully rigid version
(as shown on the Pixel III pages). But I kept on having a heli that was fine only for the
expert helicopter pilot. And that was not what I was looking for. |
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Tail Rotor Design
Performance Testing

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This is how a
typical test set-up looks like. A simple balsa frame is build and the rotor is glued on to
it. The base of the balsa frame is glued onto the digital balance. Note that the rotor
'hangs' inverted. This is to guarantee that the air is 'sucked of the table' rather than
pushed onto it. In the latter case all the readings are 10% to 20% optimistic because of
the ground effect (meaning that the fact that the air is pushed onto the table enhances
lift). A hovercraft is about 100% lifted through ground effect, but I have never seen one
fly high up into the sky. Now you know why. |
This is the small
digital balance (from WES) in action with a spinning Pixel I tailrotor. You can read 25
grams of lift. Note that here the rotor is put the wrong way and hence giving too
optimistic results. To the left of the
balance, above the cutter are two gray spots. These are scrapped motors that I tested to
optimize the powertrain. I must have tested 20 different types or so. At the price of
these little beasts (most of them were coreless, and some of them were recuperated from
brand-new high-end servo's) |
This is the
testframe for the mainrotor for Pixel . At the bottom there is the already final version
of the gearbox. Two DC 5 2.4 motors are put on. The 3mm carbon vertical axis is connected
with some silicone tubing. This was to anticipate some abrupt torque effects and to allow
for easy disassembly. Gear ratio's were
adjusted by changing the pinions on the motors. Servo gears gave excellent supply here (of
the ones I broke to pieces to get the motor for example) |
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Test Bench Design
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The test bench for
Pixel III is made from light ply glued with Zap. Id realy does not take long to do. You
see the Speed 300 motor, the gear reduction, the vertical hollow carbon axle, a servo
glued to the sides for collective pitch, and a battery to drive the servotester used to
move the servo. |
The whole thing is
mounted on top of a plate, itself put on top of a more sturdy digital balance than for
Pixel I (needed because of the extra weight). Then the complete unit is hinged onto a
sturdy box, because torque effects start to be considerable. On this base I can mount multiple rotor designs, change pitch, change
reduction ratio's, read RPM, measure current and voltages hence power consumption, get
lift, etc. It does not look too hi-tech, but is surely works. |
Same but seen from
the top. At the left you see my hand twisting the level on the servo tester to set the
appropriate pitch. At the far right are the two hinge pins that allow the plate to tilt up
and down for lift readout on the balance, but avoid at the same time that the whole set
spins around. The motor is connected to a 20Amps variable power supply. I can set voltages
and maximum current with potentiometers on the power supply and have instant digital LCD
readout. |
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Electric Motors
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These 3 different
motors are in fact all the same DC5 2.4. On the left is the original one, and I made (very
unsuccessful) attempts to make it 'better' as seen on the other 2. Because Pixel I
needs each motor to burn out roughly 5 Watt's, and because that is about TWICE the maximum
rated power, I anticipated some heath problems. On the bottom right is a DC5 motor whereon
I fitted real carbon brushes to the collector. That worked, but the carbon brushes were
'too big', and had 'too much friction'. The motor did fine, but I lost lots of power as
compared to the original one. On the top right is the same motor reworked on two levels.
First I fitted a 'real' 5-pole collector that I scrapped from a brand-new 5-pole servo
motor. The result was that I had a terrible headache because removing the collector from
the original motor, fixing it to the DC5 and soldering it to the original windings was too
much for my eyes and hands. It surely looked great. |
The second change
was that I turned down the housing to a thin wall unit, saving some 3 grams on a 10 gram
motor. Impressive, if it weren't that the whole thing had hardly enough power to turn
itself. The explanation is simple. Coreless motors need the surrounding housing to conduct
the magnetic waves. A thin wall is a bad road for these waves, and results in huge
magnetic losses. On the top right (still on
the picture on the left) is the same motor reworked on two levels. First I fitted a 'real'
5-pole collector that I scrapped from a brand-new 5-pole servo motor. The result was that
I had a terrible headache because removing the collector from the original motor, fixing
it to the DC5 and soldering it to the original windings was too much for my eyes and
hands. It surely looked great.
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The second change
was that I turned down the housing to a thin wall unit, saving some 3 grams on a 10 gram
motor. Impressive, if it weren't that the whole thing had hardly enough power to turn
itself. The explanation is simple. Coreless motors need the surrounding housing to conduct
the magnetic waves. A thin wall is a bad road for these waves, and results in huge
magnetic losses. The second picture shows a
cannibalized motor, without any housing at all, with carbon brushes, and with completely
distorted windings due to high temperature and centrifugal forces. If you think the
picture is unclear, I assure you that even if you have it in front of you, it remains hard
to see all the details. This is all small stuff.
Conclusion: the DC5 2.4 is excellent as is, and making it
better is a challenge.
For the freaks, there is a beautiful site that explains
everything about brushless motors. See the 'Links and Books' on this site to get
there. The picture above shows an exploded view of a typical brushless motor. |
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Radio Gear
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Some say this is
just electronics, I pretend this is art! A 2.4 gram full proportional servo, that now
comes fully assembled including the connector. The housing is not ommited, there simply
ain't any to save weight. Design is 100% WES-Technik |
This is the CETO
receiver as it comes from WES. It ships in kind of a jewelbox, weighs 7 grams, and has the
micro X-tal laying on the right. |
The same beast in
close-up. The connectors on the receiver are compatible with the connector mounted on the
WES series servo's. If you are not going for the last gram, just plug-in and run (fly I
mean). For Pixel, you will understand that no plugs were used and all interconnect wiring
was soldered directly to the PCB. |
Battery Stuff
The problem
Most of the technology used in Pixel is running
far beyond the original limits. So are the batteries. I use mainly the 50 mAh cells from
SR or from Sanyo. I got more consistent quality from SR, but my one best pack is
(was) from Sanyo. Order of magnitude of current draw is around 1 Amp, about 20 times
the capacity. For big capacity cells this is not an issue, mainly because the internal
resistance is low (9 milliOhm or so). The smaller cells have way higher resistance
(55milli) and that means that much more heath is generated. Lifetime expectations can be
assumed to be short. In my first months of 'Pixelitis', I tended to replace the motors
when I saw performance going down. It appeared very quickly that it were actually the
batteries who gave up. On Pixel II, at 1 amp, the batteries give up after some 20-30
flights. On Pixel 4 (O.75 amp) I get some 10 flights more. Real disposable capacity
is around 30 mAh. The other 20 mAh are lost in heath.
Charging is a challenge
I noticed that most chargers - even at 500$ a
piece - cannot find out how to reliably charge tiny NiCad batteries. On my Schultze,
I need to charge at 250mAmps at least to get the deltapeak work. At 100 mAmp it just keeps
on charging. I notice that overcharging (like at 100mAmps) gives some 10-15% more
capacity on the battery, presuming you stand next to it and disconnect the battery
when it is getting hot. You'll agree that this 'manual delta-heath-peak' method is a weird
option to implement on a 500$ microprocessor based charger.
For normal operation I just charge on 250mAmp
and that gets my battery ready after some 12 minutes. Recycling from time to time seems
not making too much of a difference.
Discharge Reference Data
To see if my batteries are still OK, I discharge
them at a fixed rate (using a discharge program on the Schultze) and see if I get the
discharge curve that I measured as a reference. Note that it takes some 5 cycles of a new
pack to break in and give the reference results. Once I see that the batteries score 5-10%
less than the reference data, they are ready for trashing.
Here is the table of voltage read-out on a 8cell
50mAh pack discharged at 1 amp, measured every 15 seconds.

And this is the same data in graph

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